Gardening in the South in the Summer

Well I am now blogging again.  I have been out of pocket for a few days and I have missed doing this blog.  I have started getting some produce out of the garden.  Roma tomatoes and Better Boy tomatoes, cucumbers, I was getting an extraordinary amount of zucchini but the squash bugs got my plants and they died.  I will be getting green beans soon and I have a lot of butternut squash.  The corn is almost ready and the one and only pumpkin is turning orange. Yeah!!!!  It has been so hot for several days that it is difficult to get out in the garden even in the early morning it is sweltering.  I did get the tomatoes, peppers and strawberries weeded again and the flower bed out in the front of the house is weeded, at least on one side of the porch.  This is what I am talking about when I say guts and glory.  Those darn squash bugs and the Japanese beetles have really been a challenge to my plants.  I am using a co-op product that you mix in water and spray but the bugs are strong.  This time of year is when it still is necessary to water the plants if their isn't any rain for several days. I am not going to give up though and I will continue sending tips and ideas for those of you interested.

Mulching or not mulching that is the question?

Mulching For The Garden

Mulching enriches and

protects soil, helping provide a

better growing environment.

In your garden

Mulching is one of the simplest and most beneficial practices you can

use in the garden. Mulch is simply a protective layer of a material that

is spread on top of the soil. Mulches can either be organic--such as

grass clippings, straw, bark chips, and similar materials--or inorganic--

such as stones, brick chips, and plastic. Both organic and inorganic

mulches have numerous benefits.

Mulch:

• protects the soil from erosion

• reduces compaction from the impact of heavy rains

• conserves moisture, reducing the need for frequent watering

• maintains a more even soil temperature

• prevents weed growth

• keeps fruits and vegetables clean

• keeps feet clean, allowing access to garden even when damp

• provides a "finished" look to the garden

Organic mulches also improve the condition of the soil. As these

mulches slowly decompose, they provide organic matter which helps

keep the soil loose. This improves root growth, increases the infiltration

of water, and also improves the water-holding capacity of the soil.

Organic matter is a source of plant nutrients and provides an ideal

environment for earthworms and other beneficial soil organisms.

While inorganic mulches have their place in certain landscapes, they

lack the soil improving properties of organic mulches. Inorganic mulches,

because of their permanence, may be difficult to remove if you decide

to change your garden plans at a later date. Therefore, this tip sheet is

limited to the use of organic mulches.

Mulch materials

You can find mulch materials in your own yard! Lawn clippings make

excellent mulch. While not particularly attractive for a flower bed, they

work wonderfully in the vegetable garden.The fine texture allows them

to be spread easily even around small plants. However, grass clippings

are becoming scarce because of the increased popularity of mulching lawnmowers that provide many of the same benefits of mulching to lawns. Newspaper, as a mulch,works especially well to control weeds. Leaves

are another readily available material to use as mulch. Leaf mold, or the decomposed remains of leaves, gives the forest floor its absorbent spongy structure. Compost makes a wonderful mulch if you have a large supply. Compost not only improves the soil structure but provides an excellent

source of plant nutrients. Bark chips and composted bark mulch are available

at garden centers. These make a neat finish to the garden bed and will eventually improve the condition of the soil. These may last for one to three years or more depending on the size of the chips or how well composed the

bark mulch is. Smaller chips tend to be easier to spread, especially

around small plants. Depending on where you live, numerous other

materials make excellent mulches. Hay and straw work well in the vegetable

garden, although they may harbor weed seeds. Seaweed mulch, ground

corn cobs, and pine needles can also be used. Pine needles tend to increase

the acidity of the soil so they work best around acid-loving plants such as

blueberries.

When to apply mulch

Time of application depends on what you hope to achieve by mulching.

Mulches, by providing an insulating barrier between the soil and the air, moderate the soil temperature. This means that a mulched soil in the

summer will be cooler than an adjacent  soil that is not mulched; while in the winter,

the mulched soil may not freeze as deeply. However, since mulch acts as

an insulating layer, mulched soils tend to warm up more slowly in the spring

and cool down more slowly in the fall than soil that is not mulched. If you are using mulches in your vegetable garden , it is best to apply them after the soil has

warmed up in the spring. Cool,wet soils tend to slow seed germination

and increase the decay of seeds and seedlings. If adding additional layers

of mulch to existing perennial beds,wait until the soil has warmed completely.

Mulches used to help moderate winter temperatures can be applied late

in the fall after the ground has frozen but before the coldest temperatures

arrive. Applying mulches before the ground has frozen may attract rodents looking for a warm over-wintering site. Delayed applications of mulch should prevent this problem as, hopefully, the creatures would already have found

some other place to nest! Mulches used to protect plants over winter should

be loose material such as straw, hay, or pine boughs that will help insulate

the plants without compacting under the weight of snow and ice. One of the benefits from winter applications of mulch is the reduction in the freezing

and thawing of the soil in the late winter and early spring. These repeated

cycles of freezing at night and then thawing in the warmth of the sun

cause many small or shallow rooted plants to be heaved out of the soil.

This leaves their root systems exposed and results in injury or death.

Mulching helps prevent rapid fluctuations in soil temperature and reduces

the chances of heaving.

Applying mulch

1. Begin by asking yourself the following questions.

What do I hope to achieve by mulching?

Weed control?

Moisture retention?

Soil improvement?

Beautification?

How large is the area to be mulched?

How much mulch will I need to cover the area?

Mulch is measured in cubic feet. As an example, if you have an area

10 feet by 10 feet and you wish to apply 3 inches of mulch, you would

need 25 cubic feet. (10' x 10' x .25' = 25 cu. ft.)

2. Determine what mulch material to use and purchase or accumulate

what you need.

Mulch can often be purchased bagged or bulk from garden centers.

Bulk may be cheaper if you need large volumes and have a way to haul it. Bagged mulch is often easier to handle, especially for smaller projects.

Most bagged mulch comes in 3-cubic feet bags.

Compost--

Leaves--

Collect leaves in the fall.

Chop with a lawnmower or shredder. Whole leaves tend to compact if

wet  or blow away if dry. Chopping will reduce the volume and facilitate composting.

Compost leaves over winter. Some studies have indicated that freshly

chopped leaves may inhibit the growth of certain crops. Therefore, it may

be advisable to compost the leaves over winter before spreading them.

Grass clippings–

Spread them immediately to avoid heating and rotting.

Newspaper–

Save your own newspapers.

Notes

Smaller chips are easier to spread, especially around small plants.

When  spreading mulch around trees, keep the mulch an inch or two

away  from the trunk. A couple inches of mulch is adequate. There is

no need to apply the mulch 6 or 8 inches high, as often is seen. Similar

to  bark mulch. If using fresh wood chips that are mixed with a lot of

leaves, composting may be beneficial. Best to chop and compost before spreading.  If using dry leaves, apply about six inches deep. Thicker layers

tend to  compact and rot, becoming quite slimy and smelly. Add additional

layers as clippings decompose. Do not use clippings from lawns treated

with herbicides. Apply sheets of newspaper and cover lightly with grass

clippings or other mulch material to anchor. If other mulch materials are

not available cover edges of paper with soil.

Applying on a windy day can  be a problem. Use only newspaper text

pages (black ink); color dyes may  be harmful to soil, micro flora and fauna

if composted and used.

Use 3 or 4 sheets together, anchored with grass clippings or other mulch material to prevent blowing away.

The amount of mulch to apply will be determined by the mulch material

you are using.

General Guidelines:

Do not apply mulch directly in contact with plants. Leave an inch or so of

space next to plants to help prevent diseases flourishing from excessive humidity.

Remove weeds before spreading mulch. Bark mulch and wood chips

are sometimes used with landscape fabric or plastic. The fabric or plastic

is laid on top of the soil and then covered with a layer of bark chips. A

caution to this practice: while the plastic or fabric may initially provide

additional protection against weeds, as the mulch breaks down,weeds

will start to grow in the mulch itself. The barrier between the soil and the

mulch also prevents any improvement in the soil condition and makes

planting additional plants more difficult.

Nutrients in the soil and those which are needed.

In your garden

Twenty nutrients have been identified that are required by plants.

Of these, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are required in

relatively large amounts. Nitrogen is associated with lush vegetative

growth, adequate phosphorus is required for flowering and fruiting,

and potassium is necessary for durability and disease resistance.

Calcium, sulfur, and magnesium are also required in comparatively

large quantities. These six nutrients are referred to as macro nutrients.

The other nutrients, referred to as micro nutrients, are required in

very small amounts. These include such elements as copper, zinc,

iron, and boron. While both macro and micro nutrients are required

for good plant growth, over-application can be as detrimental as a

deficiency. Over-application of plant nutrients not only may impair plant

growth, but may contaminate groundwater by leaching through the soil

or pollute surface waters by washing away.

Soil testing

Testing your soil for nutrients and pH is important to provide your

plants with the proper balance of nutrients while avoiding over-

application. If you are establishing a new garden , a soil test is

strongly recommended. The cost of soil testing is minor in comparison

to the cost of plant materials and labor. Correcting a problem before

planting is much simpler and cheaper than after wards. Once your garden

is established, continue to take periodic soil samples. While many people routinely lime their gardens , this can result in raising the pH too high.

However, since many fertilizers tend to lower the pH, the pH may drop

below desirable levels after several years, depending on fertilization and

other soil factors. Home tests for pH, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium

are available from garden centers. While these may give you a general

idea of the nutrients in your soil, they are not as reliable as tests performed

by the Cooperative Extension Service at  land grant universities. University

and other commercial testing services will provide more detail and you can request special tests for micro nutrients if you suspect a problem. In addition

to the analysis of nutrients in your soil, they often provide recommendations

for the application of nutrients or on adjusting the pH. The test for soil pH

is very simple– pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline your soil is.

A pH of 7 is considered neutral. Below 7 is acidic and above 7 is alkaline.

Since pH greatly influences plant nutrients, adjusting the pH will often

correct a nutrient problem. At a high pH, several of the micro nutrients

become less available for plant uptake. Iron deficiency is a common

problem even at a neutral pH on such plants as rhododendrons and

blueberries. At very low pH, other micro nutrients may be too available,

resulting in a plant toxicity. Phosphorus and potassium are tested

regularly by commercial testing labs. While there are soil tests for

nitrogen, these may be less reliable. Nitrogen is present in the soil in

several forms and the forms can change rapidly. Therefore, a precise

analysis of nitrogen is more difficult to obtain. Most university soil test

labs do not routinely test for nitrogen. Home testing kits often contain a

test for nitrogen which may give you a general idea of the presence of

nitrogen, but again, due to the various transformations of nitrogen, the

reading may not be reliable. Organic matter is often part of a soil

test. Soil organic matter is highly desirable. Organic matter has a large

influence on soil structure. Good soil structure improves aeration and

water movement and retention. This encourages increased microbial

activity and root growth, both of which influence the availability of

nutrients for plant growth. Soil organic matter also affects the availability

of plant nutrients and how pesticides react in the soil. Soils high

in organic matter tend to have a greater supply of plant nutrients

compared to many soils low in organic matter. Organic matter tends

to bind up some soil pesticides, reducing their effectiveness. Tests for micro nutrients are usually not performed unless there is reason

to suspect a problem. Certain plants have greater requirements for

specific micro nutrients and may show deficiency symptoms. Iron

deficiency is common on blueberries, unless the soil is quite acidic. On

these plants, the younger leaves will usually show signs of the deficiency

first. The areas between the veins will be yellowish while the veins remain

green. Other plants growing in the same soil will show no signs of a

deficiency. In this case, altering the pH will often correct the problem.

Taking a soil test

1. If you intend to send your sample to the land grant university in your

state, contact the local Cooperative Extension Service for information

and sample bags. If you intend to send your sample to a private testing

lab, contact them for specific details about submitting a sample.

2. Follow the directions carefully for submitting the sample. The

following are general guidelines for taking a soil sample.

a. Sample when the soil is moist but not wet.

b. For each acre of land to be tested, 10 to 15 sub-samples are

recommended. Areas that appear different or that have been used

differently should be sampled separately. For example, a separate

sample should be submitted for an area that has been in a garden

and one that has been lawn.

c. Obtain a clean pail or similar container.

d. Clear away the surface litter or grass.

e. With a spade or soil auger, dig a small amount of soil to a depth

of 6 inches.

f. Place the soil in the clean pail.

g. Repeat steps d through f until the required number of samples

have been collected.

h. Mix the samples together thoroughly.

i. From the mixture, take the sample that will be sent for analysis.

j. Send immediately. Do not dry before sending.

3. If you are using a home soil testing kit, follow the above steps for

taking your sample. Follow the directions in the test kit carefully.

Fertilizers and soil amendments

Once you have the results of the soil test, you can add nutrients or soil

amendments such as lime, as needed. If you need to raise the pH, use

lime. Lime is most effective when it is mixed into the soil, therefore it is

best to apply before planting. For large areas, using rototiller is most effective.

For small areas or around plants, working the lime into the soil with a

spade or cultivator is preferable. When working around plants, be

careful not to dig too deeply or so roughly that you damage plant roots.

Depending on the form of lime and the soil conditions, the change in pH

may be gradual. It may take several months before a significant change

is noted. Soils high in organic matter and clay tend to take larger amounts

of lime to change the pH than do sandy soils. If you need to lower the pH significantly, , you can use aluminum sulfate. Other commercially available fertilizers will also help lower the pH. In all cases, follow the soil test or manufacturer’s recommended rates of application. Again, mixing well into

the soil is recommended. There are numerous choices for providing

nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. If your soil is of adequate fertility,

applying compost may be the best method of applying additional nutrients.

While compost is relatively low in nutrients compared to commercial

fertilizers,  it is especially beneficial in improving the condition of the soil.

By keeping the soil loose, compost allows plant roots to grow well throughout

the soil, allowing them to extract nutrients from a larger area. A loose soil

enriched with compost is also an excellent habitat for earthworms and

other beneficial soil microorganisms that are essential for releasing

nutrients for plant use. The nutrients from compost are also released slowly

so there is no concern for "burning" the plant with an over-application.

Manure is also an excellent source of plant nutrients and organic matter.

Manure should be composted before applying. Fresh manure may be too

strong and can injure plants. Be careful when composting manure. If left

in the open, exposed to rain, nutrients may leach out of the manure

and the runoff can contaminate waterways. Make sure the manure is

stored in a location away from wells and any waterways, and that any

runoff is confined or slowly released into a vegetated area. Improperly

applied manure also can be a source of pollution. For best results, work

composted manure into the soil. If preparing a bed before planting,

compost and manure may be worked into the soil to a depth of 8 to 12

inches. If adding to existing plants, work carefully around plants.

Green manures are another source of organic matter and plant nutrients.

Green manures are crops that are grown and then tilled into the soil.

As they break down, nitrogen and other plant nutrients become available.

Green manures may also provide additional benefits of reducing soil

erosion. Green manures such as rye and oats are often planted in the

fall after the crops have been harvested. In the spring, these are tilled

under before planting. With all organic sources of nitrogen, whether

compost or manure, the nitrogen must be changed to an inorganic

form before the plants can use it. Therefore, it is important to have

well-drained, aerated soils that provide the favorable habitat for the soil

microorganisms responsible for these conversions. There are numerous

sources of commercial fertilizers that supply nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. The first number on the fertilizer analysis is  the percentage

of nitrogen, the second number is phosphorus, and the third number is

the potassium content. A fertilizer like 10-20-10 has twice as much of each

of the nutrients as a 5-10-5. How much of each nutrient you need depends

on your soil test results and the plants you are fertilizing. As was mentioned

before, nitrogen stimulates vegetative growth while phosphorus stimulates

flowering. Too much nitrogen can inhibit flowering and fruit production.

For many vegetables, a fertilizer higher in phosphorus than nitrogen is

preferred such as a 5-10-5.

Fertilizer application

Commercial fertilizers are normally applied as a dry granular material, or

mixed with water and watered onto the garden. If using granular materials,

avoid spilling on sidewalks and driveways. These materials are water

soluble and can cause pollution problems if rinsed into storm sewers.

Granular fertilizers are a type of salt, and if applied too heavily on

plants, they can burn the plants. If using a liquid fertilizer, apply directly

to or around the base of the plant. For the most efficient use and to

decrease the potential for pollution, fertilizer should be applied when

the plants have the greatest need for the nutrients. Plants that are not

actively growing do not have a high requirement for nutrients. Therefore,

applications of nutrients to dormant plants, or plants growing slowly due

to cool temperatures, are more likely to be wasted.  Generally, nitrogen

fertilizers should not be applied to most plants in the fall in regions of the

country that experience cold winters. Since nitrogen encourages vegetative growth, if it is applied in the fall it may reduce the plant’s ability to harden

for winter. In some gardens, fertilizer use can be reduced by applying it

around the individual plants rather than broadcasting across the entire

garden. In the case of phosphorus, much of the fertilizer phosphorus

becomes unavailable to the plants once spread on the soil. For better

plant uptake, apply the fertilizer in a band near the plant. Do not apply

directly to the plant or in contact with the roots

What's wrong with my roses?

Dealing with Rose Diseases



To make sure that your prized roses remain in the best of health, simply follow these tips.

1. Black Spots on Leaves

This disease is commonly known as black spot. Black spots appear as circular with fringed edges on leaves. They cause the leaves to yellow. Remove the infected foliage and pick up any fallen leaves around the rose. Artificial sprays may be used to prevent or treat this kind of rose disease.

2. Stunted or malformed young canes

Known as powdery mildew, this is a fungal disease that covers leaves, stems and buds with wind spread white powder. It makes the leaves curl and turn purple. Spray with Funginex or Benomyl to treat this fungal disease.

3. Blistered underside of leaves

Known as rust, this disease is characterized by orange-red blisters that turn black in fall. It can survive the winter and will then attack new sprouts in the spring. Collect and discard leaves that are infected in fall. a Benomyl or Funginex spray every 7-10 days may help.

4. Malformed or stunted leaves and flowers

This is caused by spider mites. They are tiny yellow, red or green spiders found on the underside of leaves where they suck juices. The application of Orthene or Isotox may help in treating this infestation.

5. Weak and mottled leaves with tiny white webs under them

This is caused by aphids. They are small soft-bodied insects that usually brown, green or red. Often clustered under leaves and flower buds, they suck plant juices from tender buds. Malathion or diazinon spray may help roses to survive these bugs.

6. Flowers that don't open or are deformed when they open.

Thrips could be the reason behind this problem. They are slender, brown-yellow bugs with fringed wings that also suck juices from flower buds. Cut and discard the infested flowers. Orthene and malathion may also treat this problem.

Remember roses are hungry feeders that require much fertilizer to become healthy bushes.

companion planting

 

For centuries gardeners have noticed that certain vegetables thrive in the company of certain plants while doing poorly when planted with others. There is scientific evidence that secretions given off by the roots, leaves, or flowers of some plants may be the cause of the symbiotic relationships. An example would be that the roots of the black walnut tree giving off a chemical that inhibits the growth of tomatoes. Another example would be onions inhibiting the growth of beans, peas, and several other vegetables. While some plants may have a negative effect on others, the opposite is true as well. Tomatoes and basil do well together as do cabbages and cucumbers. Some plants can even attract insects that are beneficial to other plants.

It is also well know that certain plants repel pests that are attracted to other plants. Marigold roots repel the tiny worm like nematodes, a huge plus when trying to grow tomatoes, and parsley has been known to repels carrot flies. Other plants seem to successfully lure pests away from their neighbors like eggplants luring the Colorado potato beetle away from potato plants. I've compiled a list of some plants that are beneficial to one another in some way. While my list isn't expensive, I hope you find it helpful.

Companion Planting

Vegetable or Herbs	Does Well	Does Poorly
Asparagus	parsley, tomatoes
basil	peppers, oregano, asparagus	sage
Beans (bush)	beets, carrots, cucumbers, strawberries,	fennel, garlic, onions
Beans (pole)	marigolds, radishes	garlic, onions
cabbage	celery, corn, dill, onions	fennel, pole beans, tomatoes, strawberries, grapes, pole beans
Cantaloupe	corn, sunflowers	potatoes
carrots	lettuce, parsley, tomatoes	dill
corn	beans, cucumbers, peas, potatoes, squash
cucumbers	beans, cabbage, corn, peas	potatoes
dill	lettuce, onions, cucumbers	carrots, tomatoes
eggplant	beans	potatoes
lettuce	carrots, cucumbers, onions, radishes
onions	beets, cabbage, lettuce, tomatoes	peas, asparagus
peas	beans, carrots, corn, cucumbers, radishes	garlic, onions
potatoes	beans, cabbage, corn, peas	sunflowers
pumpkins	corn	potatoes
radishes	beets, carrots, spinach
squash	radishes
tomatoes	asparagus, basil, garlic, marigold, parsley	cabbage, fennel, potatoes